Orange Blossom Going, Cinnamon Returning
|
Orange blossom set out from Seville, in the form of sweet
essence... with a hint of bitterness, and in return, Manila sent cinnamon, in
the form of oriental flavour. The galleon was loaded with cargo in the Orient,
and set sail again for the Western world. Once more, it stopped off at Acapulco,
in Mexico and in Veracruz, but this time there was another important and
significant stop-off, in Havana, "the pearl of the Caribbean". It was there that
all the ships gathered before setting sail together for Spain, each vessel
carrying merchandise, people, ideas, etc., gathered from America and Asia and
bound for Europe. Chinese silks and spices from the East Indies were shipped
from the Philippines to Mexico, Cuba, Seville and Cádiz. The return voyage
eventually reached Seville, which in 1717 ceded part of its American and
Philippine trading market to another city closer to the sea and of a more
seafaring nature: Cádiz. The longevity and persistence of this transoceanic
route came to an end in 1813, when Mexico, one of the essential territories on
its stop-off route, gained independence. The Suez Canal was opened later. The
galleon has returned. With a cargo of new cultural ideas and common history, it
draws the Western world and the Orient closer to one another, across the oceans
and crossing space and time. An inter-cultural voyage allowing both worlds to
get to know and acknowledge one another. With sails like lighted candles,
unfurled and catching the wind, the galleon leaves port once more.
Intercontinental map showing the outward and return
sea routes used between Spain and Manila. Alejo Berlinguero. 1772. AGI
As from the end of the 18th century, the vessels of the Spanish armada
sailing for the Philippines followed the route which passed round Africa
and across the Indian Ocean, which was different from the route followed
by the Manila galleon which crossed the Atlantic to America, and then
crossed the Pacific. |
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Map of the sea route
followed by the pilot Francisco Xavier Estorgo y Gallegos on his voyage from
Manila to New Spain. 1770. AGI The round trip or return voyage commenced in
July or August in order to take advantage of the monsoon season winds and the
Kuro-Sivo currents. The galleon reached Acapulco in December or January after a
long voyage. On arrival there, a large part of the merchandise it carried still
had to cross America and then be transported from Havana to Seville and Cádiz.

View of the port and bay at Cádiz. SGE In 1717
Cádiz officially replaced Seville as the control point for interoceanic
trading with America and the Philippines. In a very short space of time
the city underwent a great increase in prosperity. |
 |
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View of the port of Havana. MN Havana enters the
era of progress: the old sails are replaced by steam
funnels. |
View of the city and bay of Havana. MN Until free
trading with the Indies was introduced at the end of the 18th century,
Havana held a monopoly over the exit from America of Spanish vessels bound
for the Peninsula. Its bay was the anchorage for all the fleets arriving
from Veracruz, Cartagena de Indias and all the ports on the Caribbean
coasts before they set out together on the return trip. |
 |
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74-cannon vessel drawn by Agustín Berlinguero for the
Álbum marino which was drawn up by Cesáreo Fernández Duro. MN The
strategic defence of the Overseas provinces also implied the need to
provide an infrastructure that would serve the warships of the Spanish
Crown |
Samples of the country's produce. La Ilustración
Española y Americana. 1888. BN Philippine trading activity spread out
over the whole of its surrounding geographical area. This photograph shows
a range of samples of natural and industrial products which was prepared
for presentation to the Japanese government. |
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The days of the future spread
out before us like a string of lighted candles, candles that are golden, warm
and full of life. The days of the past are left behind, their candles a
mournful, burnt out string, the wisp of smoke still curling from the more
recent bygone days, cold, twisted candles to be cast away. I look ahead at the
lighted candles before me.
Kavafis
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Discovering Philippines Copyright ©
2004 Robert S. Gardner